Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens

Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help cities stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. They protect land from development by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Polish Grapes

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout Bristol

The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on

Brenda Harmon
Brenda Harmon

Elara is a seasoned hiker and nature photographer who shares her passion for the outdoors through engaging stories and practical advice.